Zbrush Mechanical Part 8, Sweeping Up

Zbrush has a handy tool that isn’t always well understood, the Sweep3D primitive, which is akin to the lathe tool you might find in other 3D apps.   What is handy, is that you can pick the number of sides you want, as well as quickly set up for a simple or complex profile.   Here is a simple 8-sided sweep.sweepWith pretty straight forward parameters in it’s initialize menu:initparamsThere are two profiles to set for a Sweep3D object.   The first and most important to the shape is the S Profile, which controls the outer shape of the object.  To add control points, just tap on the graph.   To remove control points, just drag the point off the graph.   

halo

The trouble for some users is that the line interpreted between the points is a spline and often doesn’t give a more angular shape.   It isn’t obvious, but when you select a point on a graph, a circle appears around the point like a halo.  That circle isn’t just to highlight the point–it also controls how smooth the line is that passes through the point!  Draw the circle close to the point by dragging its rim, the point gets sharper–further away, the line through the point gets softer.  Neat!

The second profile, T Profile,  controls the thickness of the object that is swept.  By default it give a nice even thickness top and bottom, so I leave this alone.

simple-alphaAfter converting my simple octagonal object to a poly mesh, and subdivided it 8 times with SMT (smooth) off, I can then start decorating it to make it a little more mechanical looking.   Picking a simple alpha from my collection (this one from Codeman Studios) I can just drag a marquee of the alpha by starting my click off the object and dragging across.   Do it twice, and I have a nice set up to inflate some ridges from the surface.masked

A couple of inflates (deformation menu) and  then Iuse radial symmetry of 8 and couple of different alphas to decorate the object further getting something like this.decoratedAdd texture and I have another mechanical part for a machine.finished

Tags: ,

The Water Temple

Taken near Sunol, CA:the-water-temple-at-sunol

Tags:

Zbrush Mechanical Part 7, Nurnies

mechboxFor years, model makers, whether working in the real or 3D world have known one secret to making things look realistic is often to add small details that represent the mechanical surface of the machine in question.   To speed things up, especially in the days when we worked in styrene instead of bits, small pre-made casts of mechanical “bits”, referred to as nurnies or greebles were glued to objects to make that object look “real.”   It’s a convincing illusion, even with the simplest model.   In this example, I’ve taken the simplest model I could think of, a straight edged cube.    For a real project, I would mix in six or seven nurnie types to increase the complexity of the surface, but for this example, I just used one, a hatch and varied its size.   Zbrush has a fast way to do this–it’s called the Mesh Insert brush.  

meshweave-hatch

A Nurnie By Meshweaver

The Mesh Insert brush allows you to pick another model and just stick it to the surface of the model.   The “Brush Mod” slider controls how deep the object will be placed on the surface.   (I often slide it up around +40 to +60 so that the nurnie generally riding right on the surface.

The main point of nurnies is to save time, so you may want model for yourself a few Lego-like pieces to stick onto your next project.   I have a library of few hundred in various resolutions I’ve kept handy for my projects.  :)

If you really want to save yourself time, Meshweaver Productions make two very extensive collections. For £82.48 GBP (about $125 USD), you can have hundreds (about 550, each rendered in multiple resolutions) of detailed nurnies in your library which represent hundred of hours of saved work.  The hatch I used is from their second collection of  of parts, many based on tank pieces.  (I don’t take compensation on this blog–I bought these myself and really, really like this product.)  

If you look back at part 5 of this series on Zbrush Mechanical, you’ll quickly be able to make fast alphas from your nurnies as well, expanding the possibilities for high quality detailing of your mechanical projects.

If you’re serious about mechanical modeling and surfacing, you owe it yourself to learn about nurnies and start collect your own parts for nurnification.

Tags:

Macro Brite

4804_r1-wireless-close-up-speedlight-system_frontI had been looking for a easy way to light ultra close-up pictures with my Nikkor 105mm macro lens.   Initially I thought of a ring flash, but I noticed that Nik0n had a clever kit for its Creative Lighting System (Nikon CLS) specially designed for its lens and camera systems.   Called the R1 Wireless Close-up Lighting System, I was intrigued that the whole thing was put into a nice kit of 2 remote flashes, a ring mount, adapters, filters, defusers, flexible arm, and angle bounces.   Rather than go with a ring flash, I decided to give it a try since this kit was only $25 more than a pro-quality ring flash.  It was a pleasant surprise!  

The system works great D300′s built-in flash which acts a remote commander.   It also works great with my SB800 flash as a commander or slave.   What I’ve been really pleased with is the versatility of  positioning and control.   Working in combination with my SB800, I have three free positional remotes in addition to the built-flash on the camera, which is important in those shots where you need to get the light just right.

pens It’s a nicely portable system and the only minor annoyance is that the SR200 flashes that make up the remotes for the systems use CR123 batteries, which means you need to keep a couple of extras in the field (you get about 280 flashes on a battery.)

If you’re a Nikon owner needing a close up lighting kit, especially for Nikon’s newer cameras which have built-in flash commander modes, the Nikon RC1 kit is definitely worth a look.  Even with older cameras, you can use a SB600 or SB800 as a flash commander, or add the SU800 flash control which mounts on a standard hot-shoe.

Tags:

Zbrush Mechanical Part 6, Twist & Turn

How about a thumb pin like this?  final-knob1

Pretty tough?   Not really!  Start with your basic cylinder with about 172 by 100 divisions:basic-cyl2

Now a little masking using Ctrl-drag:first-mask3

Invert  (ctrl-tap outside the model) and inflate (Deformation subpallet):inflate4

Now for some stripes.   On the masking subpallet, Mask All, and then set sel and skip to 3 and 8.   Hit Col for a nice striped mask:stripe-mask5

Let’s restrict to our inflated area plus a nice little edge:limit-stripes6

Inflate again:second-inflate7

Pretty good, but I like ‘em all twisty on thumb grips.  Grab and invert a quick selection:third-mask8

And Twist a couple of times (Deformation subpallet):twist9

A quick mask and deflate on the body, add a texture, and it’s done:final-knob10

Time to model, about 3 minutes.

Tags: ,